Tuesday, October 13, 2015

Brussels, Belgium - October 2015

Market Square 

As we are always looking for a fun and interesting way to spend our free time in a fairly affordable manner I like to look around online for cheap flights, trains, etc.  Last weekend we were fortunate enough to find some reasonably priced flights to Brussels.  So we packed up our stuff and headed out for what turned out to be a wonderful experience!

Streets of Brussels 

We left on Saturday morning from Valladolid on a bus to Madrid – at 4 am – to make it to the airport for 730.  Our flight was at 850 so we were in Brussels by 11.  Once we reached the airport we saw hundreds of refugees/migrants and they looked happy which was nice to see.  There was a huge refugee camp set up in Brussels but just a couple days before we arrived it was taken down and there is only a small area of camp left.  I am not certain what happened to all the people living there. 

 Brussels 

La Cyclist

Our hotel was right downtown which was incredibly convenient for transportation and sightseeing adventures.  We went there right away dropped off our bags and headed out to explore the gorgeous city of Brussels.  The major historic center of the city where all the touristy stuff is located is not too big so we were able to basically see everything in a day; although we are excellent walkers and do not mind walking from one side of town to the other multiple times to see what we want to see.

 Cathedral of St Michael and St Gudula

 Parc de Bruxelles

 Parc de Bruxelles

Brussels is like no other city I have seen before.  The architecture is mind blowing and the city is so ornate and clean!  The city was occupied by the Germans during WW1 and WW2 but was spared from any major damage so the buildings in the historic center are the originals, which is not the case for some other areas of Belgium.  Brussels is the capital city and home to the EU and NATO.  The official languages are Dutch and French but English is spoken everywhere so we never had any issue communicating with anyone.  I am sure when you venture out into other areas of Belgium you might have a harder time but in the center you will be fine.

Royal Palace of Brussels

Parc de Bruxelles

The Historic center is impressive.  I basically started crying when we first walked into the Market Square.  I can honestly say in all the travelling we have done in Europe this square is the most beautiful I have seen.  We kept finding ourselves back there just marveling at the buildings.  This is where The Grand Place is located – which is a UNESCO world heritage site. 

Market Square - Grand Place

 Market Square

Market Square

I was slightly worried about finding food to eat on this trip as it was my first trip as a vegan and I already know how challenging it can be travelling as a vegetarian.  However I was pleasantly surprised with the variety and ease of finding everything I wanted.  Our hotel had an amazing breakfast spread with tons of veggies, fruits, beans and anything else a non-vegan could want, the restaurants in the city had lots of options and then of course the grocery shops had many snacks I could pick up– except hummus I never found that.  The best part was first getting off the train from the airport and walking outside to find a vegan booth set up!  They were full of information and many delicious treats so I might have eaten chocolate cake for breakfast the first day.

 Street wanderers in the evening

Now as far as Belgian Cuisine goes I could not eat much.  Like I said finding vegan food was easy but actual Belgian food is certainly not vegan!  Even the fries were not Vegetarian friendly!  Belgium is famous for its Waffles, French Fries (frites), Beer and Chocolate.  I could only indulge in beer and a fraction of the dark chocolate.  The fries are all cooked in Ox or Horse fat which is what gives them their unique flavour – or so I am told – so Vegheads beware Belgian fries are not for you!  The beer however was quite tasty and to make it more fun I had mine served in a horn shaped glass.

Belgian Beers 

Ross and I really wanted to see some WW1 sites which are all located outside of the city and basically impossible to get to unless you have a car - that is unless you take a guided bus tour.  I realize that by taking this tour Ross and I have now skipped middle age and entered our elderly years but it was worth it. 

We took a tour with the Brussels City Tours company.  They have a variety of tours you can choose from but we went with the Flanders Fields option.  This was a 13 hour tour which took us from Brussels to many monuments, cemeteries, the front lines and the town of Ypres.  I cannot imagine a better way to spend a day learning about the war and seeing the sites that are so important to our history.  It also made us very proud to be there as Canadians since Canada is very much revered and respected in those parts because of our involvement in the war.

John McCrae memorial at Essex Farm Cemetery

The Canadian Monument

I have never done a tour like this before so I really did not know what to expect.  There were around 40 people on the bus in total with Ross and I being the youngest – this is not something I am used to anymore. Our tour guide was fabulous.  He was funny and personable and knew everything you could want to know about the war, the sites, the politics etc. I feel like I learned a great deal more about this war than I previously knew.
 
Memorabilia at the Trench of Death

The Front Lines - The Trench of Death

We saw one of the only German Cemeteries (there used to be 130, now only 3), Tyne Cot Cemetery, The Trench of Death, The Canadian Monument, Hill 60, the monument to John McCrea where he actually wrote the poem In Flanders Fields, and Ypres where Flanders Fields museum is located as well as The Menin Arch on which there are names of 54,000 soldiers who were never found.  We were lucky enough to get to see the ceremony held at the arch way for the lost soldiers that night.

Vladslo Cemetery ... One of three remaining German Cemeteries

The Last Post Ceremony

The ceremony is called The Last Post and it takes place every night under The Menin Arch arch at 8 pm.  This ceremony has happened every single night since the war ended in 1918 minus the 4 years of WW2.  They shut down the road and people from town as well as visitors crowd around to have a minute of silence, hear the buglers, lay wreaths and hear the reading of the Exhortation, taken from Laurence Binyon's poem “For the Fallen”.  It was very moving and I feel so grateful to have been in attendance. 

It is difficult to describe the emotions I felt during the tour.  There was sadness and anger as well as feelings of pride.  I saw and read things that I cannot imagine having to experience in my life.  Those of us who have been fortunate enough to have been born in a time or place where we did not have to experience war should consider ourselves lucky.  We are privileged to live our lives without fear for our lives or the lives of those around us.  I think far too often we take our good fortune for granted and do not realize the horror that those who were not so lucky have had to deal with.

 Quotes on the walls at Tyne Cot Cemetery



As someone who has family members who were not so fortunate I have always tried to think about what they went through and how maybe the silly things I get upset about really do not matter.  My Papa always says that we do not know what it really means to suffer and I try to hear his words whenever I am feeling sorry for myself.  His words help put my life in perspective.

My Papa and I April 2014.  He is the greatest man I know.


I think this tour is something I will always remember and I will always be happy that I experienced such a trip.  If you ever find yourself in Belgium take a day to explore the war memorials.



The next morning we woke and had a few hours to enjoy a bit more of the city before heading to the airport.  I had delicious tomato soup and crusty bread while Ross enjoyed a veggie filled Quiche.  The flight back to Madrid was very turbulent which of course makes me very nervous and uncomfortable but luckily Ross holds my hand and talks me through it.  He is a good man putting up with all my idiosyncrasies. 

 Ross enjoying Starbucks because we can! 

 Coolest fountain ever

Belgian Church

Belgium is a wonderful country.  I look forward to wherever our next adventure may lead us!

Some more photos from our WW1 Tour

Vladslo Cemetery 

 Because the Cemeteries have been combined from 130 to 3 all of the headstones have approximately 20 names on them.

 The statue of The Weeping Parents

The Trench Of Death

 Reinactments of what life as a solider was like

 Such a beautiful place for such horrors to take place


 However this is the reality for those who spent 4 years in the trenches


 Walking through the trenches 

reenactment soldier showing us his post 

The Canadian Monument





Simple and peaceful

Flanders Fields Museum


Propaganda

 Remains

 Life for the horses...Not just humans lost their lives

 Thoughts on Passchendaele

 The faces of gas attacks

 11-11-11

 Thoughts from the soldiers on the war

 Ross next to a bomb

John McCrae Memorial at Essex Farms Cemetery



 Essex Farms Cemetery 

Tyne Cot Cemetery

The burial grounds for 11,954 soldiers of The Great War.  Of these graves 70% of the soldiers are unknown.  On the wall at the back of the cemetery are the names of 34,927 soldiers who have no known grave and died from August 1917 to the end of the war.  This is only a selection of names as there are several sites on which they are inscribed.












Hill 60
 An old bunker

 Where used to stand a hill now sits a crater lake.  Here 800 soldiers died in the attack on the hill.

Menin Gate - The Last Post

Here there are 54,000 names of soldiers who were never found.







If you are interested in learning more about The Great War I recommend these sites.





Friday, September 11, 2015

Lisbon and Sintra Portugal - September 2015

Portuguese tile work 

When we first flew from Toronto to Madrid we made a couple stops in Portugal – one in the Azores and one in Lisbon.  This of course gave us zero time to explore but from what I could see from the plane it looked lovely. The longer we have been here in Spain the sillier it has seemed to us that we have never taken the time to go back and actually explore Portugal. I think if we were able to drive here it would have happened sooner (Its only a 6 hour drive to Lisbon from Valladolid) however being without driving abilities here we decided the train was our best option.  So last week we thought lets just book it for that weekend!

The train from Valladolid takes about 8 hours and travels to Lisbon overnight.  It cost us 90 Euros each for return trips which left Friday evening at 11 pm.  I don’t want to get into a whole rant here about Renfe but I was not impressed with our trip.  We opted for seats instead of beds as we like to travel cheap so we already knew it wouldn’t be an amazing night sleep.  We didn’t know however that Renfe does not understand the internet.  When the tickets were booked we were allowed to choose our seats. Based on the diagram given I chose seats that faced forward and did not face another couple. However for both of our trips the diagram of the train online was not the same as the actual train and we ended up sitting facing two other people the entire ride.  For a short trip this isn’t a big deal but when you are trying to sleep and the person across from you keeps kicking you it get s pretty annoying.  There is just no way to be comfortable so sleep comes in short waves throughout the night.

Early morning down by the river 

No shortage of spray paint in Portugal...

View of the city from the Castle

Once we arrived in Lisbon however the uncomfortable train ride was absolutely worth it! Lisbon is one of the oldest cities in the world and the oldest in Western Europe.  I was very pleasantly surprised with how modern and yet still full of history and authenticity the city was. I found Lisbon to be very diverse in culture, ethnicity and city life in general.  Most people we met spoke English and there was a variety of foods for vegetarians to eat!  As with most of Europe, they still love their meats, but we didn’t have any issue finding something we could enjoy. The Pastel de Nata (Custard tarts) were especially delicious.  Do not travel to Portugal and skip the tarts you will regret it (I am slowly cutting out dairy in my life and so I am glad I tried this before I say goodbye to it completely)! Oh and the Indian food selection was unreal!  It wasn’t a matter of finding a restaurant but deciding which one to go to.  I was in my happy place for sure.

Pastel de Nata

We only really had one day to see as much as possible as the second day we were heading to the town of Sintra, so we did what Ross and I do best, we walked our butts off!  Seriously though Lisbon is almost as hilly as San Francisco.  If I lived there I would never need to work out because walking around town is amazing exercise.  We started in the center of town and went from there.  We spent a good deal of time wandering around the city center (Baixa) and the old town (Alfama) in the morning, and the upper quarter (Bairro Alto) that evening. 

The lovely streets of Lisbon

Art sales 

Coolest tree roots I've ever seen

Castelo de Sao Jorge (Saint George Castle) was a must see for us.  A Moorish Castle which overlooks the city and the Tagus River (which leads out to the Atlantic Ocean).  In 1147 Portugal was free from Moorish rule and the castle was taken over by Christian forces.  It was not until the late 14th century that the castle was dedicated to Saint George, a warrior saint, who was quite often portrayed slaying dragons.  The castle has seen better days, it was left fairly ruined in 1755 when an earthquake hit Lisbon, but has undergone several restorations over the centuries and now stands as a historical monument and wonderful tourist attraction.

Wandering the Castle grounds

The courtyard where we ate some apples

Castle walls



We were fortunate enough to stay in a hotel with an outdoor swimming pool so after an exhausting morning of sightseeing we found our hotel and spent some time in the pool and laying in the sunshine before heading back into town for dinner and more exploring.  I should point out that although Ross and I walk everywhere the city has amazing transportation systems in place.  Buses, trams, metro lines, and a million taxis.  So getting around is cheap and easy for those who do not want to kill their legs like us.

This is the would have been amazing shot if I wasn't so taken by the pistachios I was eating

Making our way through Bairro Alto and back towards the Baxia district we came upon The Santa Justa Lift.  This is an elevator which was constructed in 1902 to connect the lower Baixa district with the higher Largo do Carmo (Carmo Square).  It cost us 5 euros each to be lifted to the first platform where the view of the city is lovely but there are stairs you can take to the third floor (I do not know why the second floor was closed) and get a stellar look at the entire city!  It was worth the 5 euros, however once we crossed the walkway over to the square we realized we could have just walked across from the other side and not had to pay to ride in an old elevator.  The experience was neat though.

Santa Justa lift

 The stairs to the third floor

 View of the city

More views from the elevator

Largo do Carmo

One of my very favourite parts of the evening was finding Starbucks!  Now I always look forward to Starbucks but this trip was made very special.  It is not secret to anyone who knows me that everything fall is my thing (call me a basic bitch if you want – we all know that’s not the case) so it has been incredibly difficult being in Spain and not having my autumn weather, activities and treats.  Pumpkin Spice is life and it only existed in North America until now!  Apparently because of the popularity Starbucks decided to try out other markets and Portugal is one of them!  So I got to enjoy a delicious latte that I thought I would not see until Autumn 2016!  This may seem silly to you but it meant a lot to me.  It made me feel a little closer to home.  Also it tasted better than in Canada, less sweet more spice and I like that.

Early morning Metro rides

On Sunday morning we woke early and caught the metro to Sintra.  This is a town about 40 minutes outside Lisbon and it was only a 4 euro round trip each which is just awesome!  Sintra is a town I had seen countless photos of but I did not realize exactly where it was. I was so happy that a couple different people said we should visit if we were going to Lisbon.  If people had not of recommended it we may not have gone and we would have missed so much!

Wandering the mountain side

Sintra is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  The touristy town sits at the base of the Sintra mountains and travels up into a gorgeous forested area which is speckled with castles, palaces and amazing gardens to explore!  Once we arrived by train we took a tourist bus up the mountain.  Yes, it is possible to walk it but you would need more than one day to see it all.  As it was we took the bus up and still only had the chance to visit three sites.  The bus ride was an experience all in itself.  It was Ross and I and about 40 elderly Portuguese folk.  And these folks were rowdy!  They were all talking and singing and yelling across the bus.  I have never seen such a thing.  It was hilarious and I so wish I could have understood what they were saying.  They really seemed to be having a wonderful time.

The first site we saw was the Castelo dos Mouros (Castle of the Moors).  This was built during the 8th and 9th centuries and was primarily used to guard the agricultural land that was necessary during the time and as well it was considered a primary military point.  The Castle sits on top of the mountain and has a panoramic view of the town and out towards the ocean.

Castelo dos Mouros

 Walking the castle walls

 Unreal views

It was so interesting to walk the walls and feel so in touch with such a rich history.  I really felt like I was back in the days of Robin Hood!  The narrow walkways and steep steps allowed me to try and visualize what it would have been like so many centuries ago guarding the castle and the town below.  We of course had a drink at the cafĂ© there because obviously I want to sit in a mountain top castle and drink tea!  What a lovely start to the day.

Such a cool place for a cup of tea

After leaving the Moorish Castle we walked to the next site which was the Palacio Nacional da Pena (Pena National Palace).  During our walk there we met a lovely older couple from Tennessee who asked if they could follow us to the palace.  Ross said it was fine but only if they walked like he was walking and then he proceeded to wave his arms back and forth over his head.  I turned around and saw they were both laughing and doing it as well!  It was really sweet and I instantly liked them.  Something so great about travelling is the people you meet along the way.  People you would never meet otherwise that help make your memories special.

The Palace itself was like something out of a fairy tale!  I have never seen such an elaborate facade.  The colours, the designs, the shape of the building, it was all so magical.  It is also a national monument, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and one of the 7 wonders of Portugal.  Much of the style of the palace is Romanticism but has a blend of Neo-Gothic, Neo-Islamic and Neo-Renaissance influence as well.

 Palacio Nacional da Pena

 Amazing colours

 I mean look at this doorway!

 Every twist and turn lead to more beautiful views

I could make serious use of this kitchen!

We spent a great deal of time exploring the entire inner and outer spaces, stopping for lunch in the restaurant.  It felt very special to be eating lunch in such a beautiful castle!  Tomato soup and spinach pies – My veggie heart was full of gratitude for delicious options. 


As we were walking through the castle gardens on the way out I couldn’t help but cry as a wave of emotion swept over me.  I truly feel so lucky to be seeing such wonderful places.  I feel so grateful to have Ross in my life.  If not for him I do not know where I would be but it likely would not be in a Portuguese castle.  How lucky are we to want to travel the world together and to actually have this opportunity!  There is not a day that goes by that we do not talk about how lucky we are.

 Views wandering down the mountain

Felt so great to be in the forest again...Even if it was just walking down the road

We left the castle and walked down the mountain for an hour until we reached what I believe to be the most magical place we saw that day.  Quinta da Regaleira, an estate which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the main attractions for tourists in Portugal.  The gardens and estate were constructed over several years by Carvalho Monteiro a wealthy merchant.  He wanted to create a space which reflected his ideology and interests which included masonry, and the Knights Templar.  The Palace itself is 5 stories and is of Gothic influence with gargoyles, and pinnacles.

Gorgeous Estate 

 Amazing Gothic Palace


 The small Cathedral in the garden

Towers in the gardens

It is the garden that is the most fascinating part of the estate however.  It is a maze of flowers, trees, grottos, caves, tunnels and waterfalls.  The best parts were the Initiation Wells (aka inverted towers) These wells were never meant to serve as water sources but were intended for ceremonial purposes.  The larger of the two wells has a 27 meter spiral staircase which is linked to tarot mysticism.  It is said to make relations to the ascension between Heaven and Earth.  I had seen photos of this over the years and it was something I always wanted to see but never believed I would get to so this was a truly intense moment.

Pond we found when exploring the tunnels

Crossing ponds

 Tunnels that lead to the wells

 Looking up from the bottom of the well

 Looking down into the Initiation Well

From the bottom of the Unfinished Well

Portugal was so much fun and really inspirational.  I feel like I stepped back in time and learned so much about the history.  I would have liked to spend a few more days touring around but alas if we want to see a lot of places we have to be cheap and sometimes that means sleeping on trains so we can have a weekend away!  I absolutely recommend visiting Portugal if you ever have the chance.