After a very long illness filled month Ross and I
needed some rejuvenation, so we set out on a weekend adventure in the Picos De
Europa with our friends Lloyd and Ines. A
weekend getaway in the mountains is always a good idea and has never failed to
bring me back to my center and help me to feel alive. The thing we miss most living here in Valladolid
is being in nature so we jump at any opportunity to get out of town.
Lloyd found us a great country house in the
village of Pandiello just outside the small village of Poncebos. It was such a lovely place to stay. Honestly I don’t think more than 15 people
could possibly live in this village and there was likely more donkeys than
people. It was charming and peaceful. I loved laying in bed at night and listening
to the donkeys bells as they grazed – donkeys might not sleep.
The house itself was wonderful, aside from the
hot water and heating not working on the second night. The people who rented it to us were really
nice about it though and offered to let us stay at another apartment they
had. Ines took them up on it but the
rest of us toughed it out although I did feel very gross on Sunday after not
showering all weekend.
Something I found very interesting about this
house was the interaction with the people who rented it to us. I am so used to going to a hotel, getting the
key and a map and not really speaking to the front desk person again so this
was a new experience for me. The hosts
greeted us all with the typical European kisses and introductions, we got a
full tour of the house and then just chatted for a while. I mean I didn’t chat because clearly I still
do not speak Spanish but the rest did.
It was the same when checking out, lots of chit chat and kisses
goodbye. It was different and I liked
it. It felt so much more personal and friendly than I am used to.
It was a lovely three-bedroom place, with lots of
space for cooking and just hanging out.
It is nice to be able to make our own food when we travel as it is
cheaper but also being vegan and vegetarian it can be challenging (as I have
stated many times) to find food in Spain.
Also I just enjoy cooking and eating, especially with my friends, it is
fun and a good way to check myself and my aggressiveness in the kitchen. Patience is taught in the kitchen.
Saturday morning was awesome. We woke up early to make breakfast and head
off on our hike so the sun was still asleep when we were eating. After breakfast I went upstairs and was
overtaken with the beauty of the sunrise.
We had yet to actually see the village since we arrived late at night
and I do not think there could have been a better way to be introduced. With the sky glowing pink, purple and orange
over the mountains, roosters crowing and the fresh air filling my nose I immediately
felt a surge of life I have not felt in a long time.
We drove maybe 10 km from the village to arrive
at the beginning of the Ruta Del Cares, also known as “The Divine Gorge”. This is a 12 km route one way and since we
planned to return the same route we were looking at a 24 km hike. It has been a very long time since Ross and I
have done a hike that long but we are always up for the challenge.
The first 2 km of the route were the most
difficult. It was mainly uphill and very
rocky. I was sweating by the time that
part was over but the rest of it was fairly easy. The path is wide enough for two most of the
time but there were definitely areas where we had to walk one by one. It was mostly flat so running shoes were
totally fine to hike in which is good because my hiking boots are in a box at
Ross parents house.
What a gorgeous place to hike for the day. Around every corner I was completely awed by
the beauty and power of the mountains.
They towered above us and the sheer drop of the side of the path kept us
in line. I felt so tiny in this world of
giant rock formations. Places like this
always help me to put my presence on this earth into perspective. Although, yes we are all a part of the world
around us, we are small and the world does not revolve around us as
individuals. We are a part of something much
bugger than us which is humbling and uplifting.
The best part of the route, for me, was being out
in the middle of a mountain range with no cell phone service and only the sound
of our feet on the ground, the wind and the mountain goats. We saw so many goats hanging around on these
incredibly steep slopes like it was no big deal. It is so amusing to me that they do not seem
to notice what a harrowing feat they are participating in! I kept looking over the sides of the path
thinking if I fall I die and here they are just leaping from tiny rock ledge to
tiny rock ledge eating the sparse grass and staring at us as we wandered by.
At some point partway through the route we end up
crossing over from Asturias to Leon and although there was no actual physical
boarder you could feel the air change.
Leon was much colder although it also had more sunshine. It didn’t matter what province we were in though
the entire trail was full of magnificent scenery and we enjoyed every minute.
We reached the end of the path after about 4
hours – Lots of stops for photo ops – and sat down in the village of Cain to
enjoy our picnic lunch. It was a lovely
place for a picnic – a river, huge mountains, a field full of sheep and many
stray cats for me to pet. Although as I
have mentioned before I can’t pet them all or Ross says I will get fleas. I fed one some tofu from my sandwich and he
loved it. I assume it was the first tofu
he had ever eaten.
That evening after we returned home and learned
about our no hot water situation we cleaned ourselves up as much as possible
and headed into the town of Arenas De Cabralas for dinner. We found a great restaurant that actually had
a vegetarian menu with some accidental vegan options so it worked out very well
for Ross and I.
In the morning on Sunday we headed up to Gijon. This city is gorgeous, right on the coast and
a perfect place to spend the afternoon.
Lloyd was scheduled to run the Farinato Race there at noon so Ross, Ines
and I planned to relax by the water and have tea while he raced. For those of you who don’t know it is similar
to Tough Mudder. Something I have always
wanted to do but I know I am not fit enough for that! I included the link for anyone interested in
the Spain or Portugal areas. Lloyd said
it was the most fun thing he has ever done.
We all met back up after the race and walked down
the promenade and found some lunch in Plaza Mayor. I still after two years here in Spain cannot
understand how people eat so much food at lunch. Three courses, wine and dessert – there is
just no way I could do that in the middle of the day. It is such a huge part of the day as
well. We sat down around two and didn’t leave
until four – and we were rushing at the end!
It was a nice place though and everyone seemed to enjoy their meals.
We arrived back in Valladolid after a 3.5-hour
drive and said our good byes. I had such
a wonderful time. The weekend was full
of laughs, good conversation and gorgeous scenery. I truly appreciate the time I get to spend
with my friends here. This weekend was
one of those weekends that make me feel so grateful for the time we have lived
in Spain and the awesome friends we have made along the way.
Until next time,
Besos
