Monday, January 18, 2016

Berlin, Germany - January 2016


Our final destination this holiday was Berlin.  In fact, when we first began booking our holidays we booked our flight to Budapest and a flight home from Berlin and then said ok what do we do in between?  We had visited the Black Forest in the Western part of Germany this past spring with Ross’ parents and really enjoyed it so we were excited to visit the country again.

So we caught a train from Prague and we were off! If you recall from my previous blog this is the train where we had to book our seats once we arrived in Prague or we would have been standing for 5 hours in the aisles.  Seriously I am so happy we did.  When I saw all the people standing I felt so relieved that we had a place to sit.

This was the most beautiful train ride we had taken through our whole trip.  It was through gorgeous mountains with charming villages, past rivers, lakes and across lovely fields covered in a light dusting of snow.  I truly enjoyed all the scenery.  One of my favourite things to do is travel through the mountains especially in the winter when they are all snow capped. 

We had planned our accommodation location well so it was very simple to get off the train and onto the metro which then dropped us off just a five-minute walk to the hotel.  I am so glad it was simple because it was freezing!  In the five minutes we were outside my fingers were so cold I could not even unzip my purse when we got to the hotel front desk. 

The hotel was nice, spacious, a good value, in a great location and with a huge tub and shower that had the best water pressure I may have ever encountered.  There was no free breakfast but luckily Starbucks was only a few minutes away and they carried an actual vegan falafel wrap so Yay to awesome Starbucks for keeping me fed! I would recommend this hotel as an option if you are staying in the city.  Super close to tons of restaurants and shopping as well as the metro and busses just steps away.


Now the unfortunate part about our time in Berlin was that we did not have enough of it.  This is a huge city with a ton to see and do so we feel like 2 days was not even close to enough time.  I think we could have easily spent 5 or 6 days just touring all the museums and monuments not to mention the huge parks, interesting neighbourhoods and downtown core. 



We feel like we barely scratched the surface. It was made especially challenging because of the cold and how early it got dark.  We had two full days here as well as the first evening we arrived and the temperature did not get above -10 and was as low as -19.  That is not fun and exciting sightseeing weather.  Also it was pitch black at 4 pm and once it was dark the cold was almost unbearable so we didn’t spend as much time touring around as we normally do in a city.


However, we did our best to see what we could!  We knew the Berlin Wall memorial was the most important thing we wanted to see so we made sure to do that on our first day. Our hotel was a 6.5 km walk from the memorial which would take us through the lovely Tiergarten park so we strapped on our boots and started walking. 




Tiergarten park was enormous and I think would be so perfect in the summer months for running, picnics and just exploring with loved ones.  We spent quite a lot of time just wandering the trails and taking photos until our feet were numb from cold. 




We passed the parliament building without going in as we were told the wait was 2 hours and we just could not be outside that long just waiting in line.  It looked like a fantastic building though so I wish we could have see inside.


The Berlin Wall Memorial was emotionally heavy.  As much as I appreciate seeing these sites part of me always feels such sadness.  For me to be in this country as a tourist and to think ‘I cant wait to see the Berlin Wall’ – because to me it is a “tourist attraction” – makes me feel guilty in a sense.  I look at this wall as a monument while those who lived through this time saw it as a prison.  This wall cut people off from family, friends, life.  This wall symbolizes such oppression, fear and death and we as tourists cant wait to take our picture beside it. 




That is not to say we shouldn’t want to see these things or to feel excited about seeing this symbol of Germanys history I just hope that people who do have the opportunity to view such sites recognize that as much as its destruction and memorial are a representation of change and hope its creation was not.  I hope that when people see something so iconic they understand that it is not just a tourist attraction but a bleak piece of human history. 



When I see things like this it reconfirms my gratefulness at being born in a country free from oppression and war.  I have never had to experience anything so awful and I am thankful for that every day. In this respect I think it is important for people to see these monuments to help keep privilege in perspective. 


I was surprised to see how much of the wall was still intact.  I was under the impression that it had all been torn down except for the memorial site but I learned that there are pieces of it still up along the river.  We walked along it for a long time and tried to imagine what it must have been like for those people who had to walk along it every day never knowing if they would see the other side. It was very interesting and I am glad to have been able to see it in person – as a tourist.



We also made a stop at Check Point Charlie which was something really interesting to see.  This was one of the better known crossing points between East and West Berlin during the Cold War.  If you are interested I have included a Wikipedia link to get you started on some reading.





Ross and I really enjoyed East Berlin.  There were so many cool neighbourhoods filled with bars, restaurants and interesting shops.  They had a very young, hip and artsy vibe which we appreciated.  And I cannot tell you how excited I was to see so many vegan and vegetarian shops!  There are actual vegan grocery stores.  I mean everything you can get at a regular grocery shop only vegan!  Why does this not exist everywhere?  I was in heaven!



We managed to get into the Berlin Cathedral on our second day touring around. This is a huge magnificent building that you must see if you ever visit Berlin.  It was built beginning in 1454.  For only 5 euros each we got to take a tour of the cathedral including walking around the outside of the dome.  This gave us an incredible view of the city and also made us realize just how much we would not get to see. 




In the basement of the cathedral is a large crypt that we were allowed to wander through.  These are always quiet places and with good reason of course.  It was different than any crypt I have visited before with so many coffins of small children.  It was sad but a lovely space.  Well worth a wander through.




There is so much more about the city that I loved – great food, friendly people, awesome transit system, fun Christmas markets and interesting architecture for your eyes to feast upon everywhere.  We did find the city to be different than most European cities we have visited in that it wasn’t as pretty.  It seemed cold (not just because it was freezing).  I suppose what I mean is that a lot of cities we visit seem artsy and curious where I found this city to be more serious. To be clear - I do not think that is a bad thing. 




Berlin was such a cool city I would love to go back and do more exploring.  Like I said there just wasn’t enough time to see it all and of course I should also mention I pinched a nerve in my foot so limping around was arduous and the last day we were there I got struck with influenza so it was a tough go.  But we did what we could. 



And thus concludes our holiday adventure!  It was an amazing two weeks and there is nobody I would rather have experienced it with than Ross.  We have been so lucky to have the opportunity to travel so much and see such remarkable places.  These are experiences we can take with us forever. 


Until next time! Auf Wiedersehen!

Thursday, January 14, 2016

Prague, Czech Republic - Dec/Jan 2016

Me on The Charles Bridge 

I still cannot believe I have been to Prague!  Honestly to me the Czech Republic seemed so far away from my life in Canada.  I didn’t know what to expect and felt very ignorant to what the country was.  All I knew about it was that until 1993 it was known as Czechoslovakia.  That’s all. I had heard from everyone I know who had traveled to Prague that it was a gorgeous city and so why not explore it for ourselves!

 The Vltava River 
View of the Charles Bridge and city center 

We caught a train from Vienna to Prague in the early afternoon and it took around 4 hours to arrive.  Once we reached the train station we immediately went to visit the ticket office to book seats on our next train to Berlin.

Here is some very important advice to anyone using trains in The Czech Republic.  When you buy tickets online you are unable to book actual seats unless you are in Czech.  So what that means is you are able to ride the trains but you will not have an actual seat and will be stuck standing in the aisles for the duration of your trip.  I am so happy we learned this and booked seats as soon as we arrived because the train was full and I would have been pretty upset spending the same amount of money (really it was 3 euros extra to book seats) as those people with seats to stand for 5 hours to Berlin. So word to the wise go into the station and book seats immediately!

Since we were staying in the city over New Years hotels were insanely overpriced.  We were unable to find anything in the city center for less than 300 euros a night!  Clearly we are not going to pay that so we opted to stay outside the center for 100 euros a night – which is still way more than we would have liked to pay but it is what it is. Anyway because of this we didn’t know the best way to get to the hotel so we grabbed a cab from the terminal.

It turns out that outside the city center in Prague basically means the middle of nowhere.  For the first few minutes in the cab I was certain he was driving us out to a human trafficking operation (thanks Hostel).  Eventually we saw the sign for the hotel so I felt slightly better.  However, the hotel was awful and I strongly recommend you never stay there.  Especially for 100 euros a night.


The photos on the website do not reflect the actual hotel.  It was old, smelly, stained, and the internet never worked.  Also the breakfast buffet, although nice that they offered it, was certainly not vegan friendly and even vegetarian Ross was put off by the actual liquid scrambled eggs. There was a bus right outside that took us downtown though so all was not lost.

Enough about bad hotels though let us talk about how gorgeous this city is! The city center in Prague is like walking through a medieval fairy tale land.  The city was founded in 885 so it is no wonder it looks as it does.  Gothic spires, castles and cathedrals surround you as you wander the cobblestone streets. I had heard Prague was known as the city of 1000 spires and it is clear to see why when you visit. 

 Charles Bridge and city center at night

 Astronomical Clock in the old town square

Love

The Christmas markets were still on while we were there and a main one was set up in the old town square.  It was so festive and full of delicious smelling foods, hot mulled wine and trinkets to marvel at while Christmas lights twinkled around us.  We might have indulged in another chimney cake, but it wasn’t as big as the first one so we didn’t feel too bad about it.  I would be curious to see what the square looks like without the markets but alas we only get to see it as it is when we visit.  I am certain it would look even more medieval though and that would be nice.

 Christmas Market in Old Town Square

We spent our time wandering through the streets checking out interesting shops, eating a ton of amazing food - Indian, Asian, Mexican – our three staples, drinking Starbucks (There are 19 in Prague! Yet somehow none where I live), people watching and enjoying sites like Charles Bridge, The Astronomical Clock, and just the view of the city from the river.  Simply stunning.

 Astronomical Clock 

 The other side of Charles Bridge 

Vltava River is gorgeous 

Awesome tourist shops!

One thing I didn’t like about the city was all the tourists.  I know I know we are some of those tourists, but I just felt there were so many young rowdy ones here.  Many just had no respect or interest in the city itself and were just there to party so they caused a lot of disturbances, and made huge messes everywhere. You know you are an actual adult when you are not interested in being surrounded by teenagers who are falling down drunk in the streets at 6 pm.

 People....
 People.......
More people.......
So many people........

Also because of the crazy amount of tourists with it being the holidays everything was so rammed full of people it was hard to appreciate the attractions.  When we visited Prague Castle we were basically just walking in a huge line everywhere we went.  Not that it wasn’t gorgeous and I am very happy we went but there was never a moment I wasn’t being touched or pushed by someone so it took some of the fun out of it.  I am sure there are always a lot of visitors but perhaps actual Christmas/New Years is not the best time to go sightseeing.

 Walking up to the castle



The walk up to the castle from Charles Bridge was fantastic.  It is a bit of a steep one so be prepared to wear your walking shoes and strain some leg muscles!  I promise you it is worth it.  There was this really great Christmas market up there where we met some super nice people and ate awesome roasted veggies!  With the castle being up on a hill you get a beautiful view of the city so it is a great place to relax with some snacks and just enjoy the picturesque landscape. 

 Prague you are beautiful 

 The castle courtyard

 Christmas market at the castle

Another castle Market 

 Castle Cathedral 


Even though I don’t think it was a great time to sight-see I do believe it was the perfect place to spend New Years Eve!  The city certainly has a thriving nightlife and whether you are in a bar or just wandering the streets there is a party happening and you are invited!  We were lucky enough to have a friend and his sister who were also staying in the city over New Years so it was great to meet up and enjoy the festivities together. 

 Ross, myself, Kevin and Cara...Blurry cellphone picture 

Something I think was really great about meeting our friend there is how we know him.  We met our buddy Kevin, from Florida, while living in Valladolid where he is working as an English teacher.  Last New Years Eve he was in London, as were we, so we got to hang out there, and then this New Years we are all in Prague together.  We all laughed and said we should make it a New Years tradition to meet up somewhere cool and spend it together.

 New Years Christmas market fun

 Great place to spend New Years!

Now I am not going to get into all the debauchery of the evening, as this is a family friendly blog, but I will say it was the single best New Years of my life!  We spent time in an underground, somewhat terrifying bar, where we met awesome people from Germany, Sweden and America, we enjoyed a few adult beverages at an Absinthe bar, watched the most perfect fluffy snowflakes fall around us in a medieval square at midnight while being wowed with an amazing fireworks display that lasted a half hour and was like nothing I have seen before. It was magical and something I think we will all remember forever.

Ross, Melissa, Absinthe...

I do want to note that the fireworks were insanely beautiful and dangerous.  In Prague the city has a fireworks display on New Years day around 6 pm but on New Years Eve the display is done by just random people.  So basically we stood in the square and watched these fireworks being let off all around us.  From all directions there were explosions of light and we never knew where the next one would be which made it even more exciting.  They were constant though and seemed well planned for just random people putting on a show. 

I borrowed this picture from the internet since we didnt take any fireworks photos but I wanted to give you an idea how cool it was!

Now the danger comes into play as there would just be a guy standing 30 feet away from you with a beer in one hand and shooting of fireworks from the other.  We did see a couple people get taken away by ambulances that were stationed in the square ready for mishaps.  However, I never felt unsafe the whole time.  It was seriously the most interesting New Years I have ever had.

Ross and I didn’t make it back to the hotel until just before the sun would have come up so its safe to say we thoroughly enjoyed the evening.  Although to be truthful part of the reason we were out so long was because we didn’t know how to get back to the hotel.  The bus we would normally take had stopped running and it is not easy to figure out where to go when you do not speak Czech and can’t read signs.  These experiences make it all the more of an adventure though and I wouldn’t change it.

And those are signs we can understand! Sort of...

Although Vienna was my favourite city that we visited in terms of beauty and interest, Prague was the most fun.  I think 2.5 days was enough time to see the city but we certainly could have spent a few more days checking out all the hidden corners we missed and of course travelling outside of the city there are sites I would have liked to see.  Try as we might we just can’t see it all.



Next up is our last city on the tour – Berlin!  So Czech back soon for more!