Sunday, December 20, 2015

Toro, Spain - December 2015

Hilltop picnics in Toro

Continuing our attempt at seeing all the small towns in our area we ventured to Toro for an afternoon of nature walks and Patatas Bravas (fried potatos in a spicy sauce).  We had heard of Toro before and even made a quick stop at the bus station a couple times when travelling to Zamora but we had yet to actually explore the town itself.  So as it had been recommended to us by a couple of our trusted friends we made it our mission to explore last weekend.

Toro is an ancient town in a famous wine producing region on the Duero River.  The wine here is said to be incredibly full bodied.  Christopher Columbus (Cristobal Colon) took nothing but Toro wines with him on his journey to the Americas.

We were able to get a bus to and from Valladolid for 15 Euros each.  The ride was about an hour through a less than thrilling countryside.  I sometimes find myself quite car sick on long trips so I was just itching to get off the bus so when Ross said this is our stop I practically ran off the bus.  Once standing outside however I knew something wasn’t right (I am pretty sure we were in a ghost town – but not a fun and exciting one) and Ross felt the same. He ran back to the bus and asked the driver if this was the only stop in Toro.  Turns out we were not even there yet.  It was still another 10 km or so up the road.  In this part of Spain the parts in between cities are flat and dry so that would have been a long and boring walk.

Main street 

Toro itself is a cute town although quite small so it took us only an hour to really see the whole city.  The main strip had lots of interesting local wine shops and bars.  It always amazes me when we travel to different cities how similar they all are though.  Tapas bars with all the same menus and no people out during the afternoon.  How can you have a beautiful sunny Saturday afternoon and nobody outside?  I love to explore and see the Cathedrals of course but I have eaten more Patatas Bravas and seen more closed up shops then I could ever have imagined in my life.

Main street 

The one thing I found very beautiful about the town was the surrounding countryside.   Was surprised at how amazing it was considering the flatness of the drive there.  Gorgeous hills and a picturesque river flowing behind the city.  We spent most of our afternoon wandering around this area.  We sat on top of one of the hills and had a bit of bread and hummus while just soaking in the sunshine.  It was the perfect place for a late fall photo shoot!

 Countryside 

 Attempting to raise a zombie army...Never works

My handsome man

Spain ...

The river is quite wide at this juncture so we got to walk across a long ancient bridge which was peaceful and very pretty.  We stood and looked over the side for a long while and watched the herons, hawks and storks gliding over the water and searching for food.  Yes we are old we like to bird watch and we are not ashamed of it!  Being in nature is good for the soul and honestly just watching a bird glide so smoothly over the water gives me a sense of calm I do not get anywhere else.

 Duero River 

River path

Duero River 

After exploring the river and small bit of foresty area we wandered back up the hill into town.  I should mention if you ever do find yourself here the “hill” I am talking about feels more like a mountain when the sun is beating down on you in the middle of the day.  So be prepared to break out in a wee bit of a sweat. 

Hill is much taller than it appears

We went to a Tapas bar and had some Patatas and Ross tried some of the local wine.  He ended up being quite enamoured by it and decided to splurge and get a good bottle from one of the shops.  It is funny because buying an expensive bottle of wine here means spending 7 euros instead of the 1 or 2 you might normally spend at the grocery shops!  

Last look at the main street 


It was a nice little adventure and worth the trip just for the beautiful scenery behind the town.  I think it is a worth while place to check out for an afternoon.





Wednesday, December 2, 2015

Hiking in San Sebastian/Donostia, Spain – November 2015


It is no secret that Ross and I love to spend our free time in nature and hiking is one of our favourite ways to do that.  Moving here to Valladolid makes that hobby a lot more challenging to partake in, and so when the opportunity arises we cannot pass it up.  We had heard there were some great trails up in San Sebastian so when we could finally find a good deal on train tickets we were game for an adventure.  Despite having to wake up at 515 am to be on our 630 train we were keen for the day.
 
The weather forecast was not in our favour but we figured a little rain wouldn’t hurt us.  I mean we are from Vancouver we have spent many years soaking wet in the woods.  Well it turns out when they said rain throughout the day what they really meant was all the rain in about five minutes.  We literally got off the train and after a couple minutes of walking through town the sky opened up and we were drenched in less than thirty seconds. It was insane.  I did not think clouds could hold that much water!  We just laughed it off though and continued to our trail. 


We started at the beach and the path lead us up some crazy steep stairs and towards the coastal trail.  It was gorgeous from the very beginning!  Once up the stairs you can turn and look back and see San Sebastian from above and if you remember from my last blog about this city it is spectacular!  Because of the ridiculous wind storm that was raging around us the waves in the ocean were intense and mesmerizing.  We were lucky to have the rain hold off for most of the hike but the wind never let up for a moment.

We wandered down the trail and through some lovely fields full of donkeys and roosters.  I just love donkeys.  I really never give them much thought but whenever I see them I feel this connection with them.  I am sure my dad would say it’s because I am a smart ass (his term of endearment for me) I just think they seem like such peaceful animals.  Ross patiently stood by as I made friends with every single one of them.




The trail is right along the coast for the majority of the 7 km so the views are stunning.  The vast ocean stretched out in front of us and a trail along the cliffs makes for great photos.  It felt so good to be in nature again.  It is the thing I miss most about Canada.  Just being in the woods, smelling the ocean air and feeling the earth beneath my feet.  Walking in the city does not compare to walking in nature.  If I could I would live in the forest.



We were watching the storm out over the ocean and knew we would be lucky to get through the hike without being rained on again, and that just made the hike more exciting!  As it turns out we were not lucky.  At one point about ¾ through we found a picnic table and thought it might be a good time for a snack but about 3 minutes into our bread and hummus the hail came.  Hail!  I cant even remember the last time I saw hail.  Yes it was cold and a little scary but I love being in the middle of such a powerful force. It is exhilarating!  Hail turned to rain and we were again soaked.




Once we got near the end of the trail we had to descend some stairs almost down to sea level and we stood there for quite some time listening to the waves crashing against the walls of the staircase.  We both miss living near the ocean so being able to feel so close for even a few minutes is bliss.
The trail then turned into a walking path along the water and lead into a fishing village.  It was much calmer here and the rain had completely stopped.  From here we grabbed a bus back into the main center of San Sebastian and were starved so we grabbed Lunch at Green Break.




Green Break is a vegan restaurant and it is delicious!  We had eaten there the last time we were up visiting the city so I was excited to have lunch there again. Burritos, burgers, potatos and Raw Spaghetti.  Amazing.  I wish Valladolid had more options for vegan food, even more vegetarian options would be awesome.  Alas it is what it is so I appreciate the vegan food when it is available.




We had a few hours before our train home so we wandered by the beaches and through the city center drinking tea and coffee and warming up when possible.  On our walk back to the train station we were talking about how we didn’t think we would dry off before getting the train and of course as luck would have it the sky opened up just long enough to completely soak us again. So we spent the entire 4 hours back to Valladolid shivering in our seats. 





It was a great day and a gorgeous hike. I am so happy we made it back up to the coast again and were able to see such beautiful things.  As our time comes to and end here in Spain we are going to attempt to see and do all we can so hopefully some more great adventures are on the way!